THEORY At The Marine Scene we practice a natural approach to a saltwater or marine aquarium. The "natural" approach is one that attempts to mimic, as close as possible, the habitat from which the fish, corals, and invertebrates originate.

NATURE Most of the fish, corals, and invertebrates are found in and about the reef. Pelagic or open water swimming fish are generally too large for captive aquariums and will not be referred to here. Describing a reef can best be done by imagining a network or body(s) of rock, upon the ocean floor at depths from zero feet to hundreds of feet in depth? These structures have evolved from millions of years of storms, coral growth and demise and natural currents and environmental and human events. Upon that rock structure and within its many caves, holes, and crevices are attached corals, housing, food, and shelter for the fish and invertebrates. Furthermore, the rock structure and its inhabitants act as the biological filter for the ocean environment. Different bacteria's, microorganisms and even the corals utilize the waste that is present. Keep in mind the ocean has no man made filter!

DESIGN In our aquariums we want to use high quality live rock, from the ocean, to create "our tanks" structure. That structure should look "evolved" and not simply a stack of rocks. In placing the live rock, try to fit the pieces together so as to eliminate the stacked look. Select pieces that are varied in shape and size. Also allow for water flow behind and around the structure so as to allow oxygenated water to flow freely around the live rock. This oxygenated water is necessary for the biological processes to occur. A decent rule of thumb when selecting live rock, particularly for Fiji or Tonga rock is one to one and a half pounds per gallon of tank capacity. We recommend using uncured rock- beware of the quality though - for a new tank. We have heard stories of stores, wholesalers, etc. that buy rock by the thousands of pounds and let it sit for days in boxes. This is not good. Our rock comes in as soon as possible from the collection site and goes immediately into our filtered vats.

EQUIPMENT In addition to live rock you will need power-heads for water circulation, a sump (if you want everything in the cabinet), main pump (in a sump system) protein skimmer, heater(s), thermometer, hydrometer, test kit, salt, dechlorinator (if using tap water), lighting and substrate.

• Sump - A sump is a container, often-another smaller tank that is placed under the main tank, usually in a cabinet, that holds the main pump, protein skimmer, and heater. The advantages are an increased level of water flow throughout the aquarium, a stable water level in the tank, a better oxygenation capability, and a neater overall appearance and an easier to maintain aquarium. An external wet-dry filter is often referred to as a sump. In our methodology we would recommend no wet-dry filtration in the sump. Our trained and experienced staff can help you make the right choice.
• Main pump - The main pump is the circulation pump. It is used in a situation where an external sump is utilized. The main pump sends water back to the tank. Our trained and experienced staff can help you make the right choice.
• Power-heads - power-heads are small to medium size submersible pumps used to create flow within the aquarium. These are supplemental to the main pump in a sump system or critical in a non-sump system. Using live rock as the biological filter it is necessary to have ample water movement throughout the tank to facilitate the biological process. It is also necessary to provide water flow to the live corals in the aquarium to bring food and wash away waste. Finally power-heads are invaluable in that they will provide water flow throughout the aquarium even in the event of a main pump failure. Our trained and experienced staff can help you make the right choice.
• Protein skimmer - A protein skimmer is a device that mixes air and water in a chamber, creating fine bubbles upon which organics adhere and are concentrated and removed from the aquarium water. It is typically constructed of plastic/acrylic and is tall and cylindrical. A skimmer is essential in a fish only tank where the stocking density is normally higher and in a wet-dry filter situation. A protein skimmer is helpful in that it removes a large quantity of organic matter that would otherwise have to processed biologically by the live rock or the wet-dry filter. We recommend a protein skimmer in all types of saltwater aquariums including reef tanks so as to improve the overall water quality. There are numerous situations where a tank can exist without a protein skimmer but we would suggest this be decided upon by an experienced aquarist. Our advice on skimmer selection - "don't cut costs here; get as good a skimmer as you can afford, relatively speaking, if you really want to have a great aquarium." Our trained and experienced staff can help you make the right choice.
• Heaters -We recommend 2 to 3 watts per gallon for a heater. It is advisable in certain situations to utilize two heaters in the event one fails. Keep in mind that a larger heater is not always the best choice as want to make sure that the heater does not "rapidly" heat the tank, but has enough power to raise the tanks temperature and maintain it without quick increases. You want to avoid rapid ups and downs and excessive temperature fluctuations in a captive environment. Our trained and experienced staff can help you make the right choice.
• Thermometer - We suggest a good quality glass thermometer and a digital readout thermometer. A thermometer should be placed in a location where it can be readily and regularly seen. The plastic stick on types are good for a general idea of temperature but should not be relied on entirely. Our trained and experienced staff can help you make the right choice.
• Hydrometer - A hydrometer is a device that measures the amount of salt in the water. The results are displayed in either specific gravity or salinity. Be careful to understand the difference and stick with one or the other. We typically utilize the plastic needle types due to their cost and versatility. The glass, floating types, while being more accurate are often difficult to read. We use a refractometer, which is quite accurate, and expensive to verify the accuracy of the plastic types and have found them normally accurate within an acceptable tolerance. We have also found a few to be grossly inaccurate, necessitating the task of periodically verifying the results of your hydrometer. When using the needle types, watch for small bubbles under the needle which can raise the needle and give inaccurate results. Our trained and experienced staff can help you make the right choice.
• Test Kits - There are so many test kits to choose from that the choice becomes overwhelming. We stock a few brands, each of which has their own characteristics and benefits. For the basic tests, ammonia, pH, nitrite and nitrate we have found slight differences between the brands, namely the ability to easily read the results. For other tests we have found a preference exists amongst the brands, of which we will gladly offer our suggestions based on our experience and the experience of our customers. We recommend the following tests to start;
  1. Ammonia
  2. Nitrite
  3. Nitrate
  4. pH
  5. Alkalinity
  6. Calcium
• Salt - Salt mixes are mostly sodium chloride with trace elements mixed in to duplicate as close as possible, natural seawater. There are numerous claims made by manufacturers exclaiming their salt to be the best. However, we sell three brands which we have used for years and found that they are each adequate and seem to provide for the needs of the saltwater aquarium. Not being scientists, though, we are not able to specifically elaborate on the plusses and minuses of any of the salts, except to offer suggestions based on our own experience and the experience of our customers. Again, our staff can help you make the right choice.
• Dechlorinator - If using tap water or city water that utilizes chlorine and or chloramines (a chlorine/ammonia bond) it is necessary to utilize a dechlorinator or water treatment. These additives detoxify the chlorine and ammonia. Be sure to check with your local water authority to determine if chloramines are used and select the right dechlorinator/water conditioner to do the job. Be sure to add the dechlorinator before adding salt initially and when performing water changes. A rule of thumb is "any tap or unfiltered water should be treated with the right dechlorinator/conditioner before using it for the aquarium.
• Lighting - There are numerous types and configurations of lighting available for a saltwater aquarium. There are numerous bulb types, wattages and sizes that can be complicated and confusing. Our trained and experienced staff can help you make the right choice.
• Substrate - Substrate or gravel is the covering on the bottom of the tank. There are essentially three normal grain sizes with many variations in between. Those grain sizes are coarse, medium, and fine. As seems to be the norm in this hobby there are numerous arguments and debates on how much substrate, how thick, and what grain size to use. The subject is much too long to go into here. We have used many combinations and cannot conclude many significant results. However, there are things to consider when planning your substrate type and depth which we can help you with in the store.

SET-UP The first thing to do is set the tank on a firm, level surface or aquarium stand sufficiently strong to hold the full weight of the aquarium and its contents. Install or place the filter system in its permanent location and check all plumbing fittings and connections. Place power-heads, heaters, etc. in their locations. Be careful to not plug anything in at this time. Next rinse the substrate with fresh water. Despite your best efforts, you will unlikely get the substrate totally clear. That is okay.

Now fill the tank with room temperature water and dechlorinate if necessary. Add salt and allow to thoroughly mix. It is often helpful to plug in the power-heads and even the main circulation pump at this time to circulate the water which will facilitate mixing the salt. (Ensure that there is ample water over the pumps and power-heads before plugging them in) The salt will be mixed when the water is clear. Use the directions on the salt bag or bucket to determine amount needed and check, once mixed, with your hydrometer. It is better to initially add less than you think you may need and add more later if needed.
Once the salt is mixed to the correct level - usually 1.024 spec. gravity or 32 to 33 parts per thousand salinity and the temperature is between 74 and 80 degrees you are ready to add live rock.

In placing the live rock, try to focus less on the brick look and place the rock in a manner that looks "evolved". Take a look at each piece and visualize how it will fit into a puzzle which is your reef structure. Create caves, crevices, flat areas as you please being aware of the importance of establishing a stable rock structure so as to avoid collapses. Make sure you leave enough room at the front and sides of the tank so you can access the inside glass for cleaning. During this process try to visualize the finished look or simply have fun and place the rock where it fits best. You might be surprised at the outcome.

Once the rock is in to your satisfaction, it is time to fill in with the substrate you rinsed off earlier. You want to fill in around the rock structure with the substrate to help anchor the rock and provide for a natural looking tank bottom. This process will cloud the tank but don't be concerned. There are a few tricks to minimize the cloudiness. A large diameter funnel is an excellent device to pour the gravel through or use a large plastic cup and gradually lower the substrate to the tank bottom, cup by cup. Any method is acceptable as long as you take measures to minimize the cloudiness. The cloudiness will not hurt anything except your patience to see your handiwork.

Now adjust your main pump and power-heads to create a turbulent or irregular water flow throughout the tank. This is done so that the aquarium water is fully circulated throughout the tank bringing oxygen rich water to the rock and corals and washing away any waste product that occurs during the initial curing phase. (The curing phase is a period of time it takes uncured {fresh} live rock to adequately cleanse itself. During curing, organisms; sponges, etc. will die and the beneficial bacteria on the rocks will process the waste. At some point - usually two to three weeks - the process will be complete, when the ammonia levels are zero and the nitrites are zero)

Adjust your heater to a proper setting and check that all systems are running properly.

A helpful hint - do not leave any lights on during this time. It will create a very large and undesirable algae bloom.

WAIT During the next few weeks while waiting for the rock to cure, begin planning out your stocking plan of fish, corals, and invertebrates. There are clearly defined priorities for introduction of livestock based on numerous factors which we will be glad to go over with you. Patience is key in this hobby and an abundance of patience will be rewarded.
While you are waiting and planning you need to be sure to top off the tank by adding fresh water to compensate for evaporation. Keep the protein skimmer clean and rinse any sponges or filter pads at least weekly.

WHAT'S NEXT Once the cycle is completed it is advisable to do a sizeable partial water change. We recommend at least 20% if feasible. This helps remove a percentage of the accumulated organics resulting from the curing process. Once the water change is complete, wait a day or two and retest the water. If ammonia and nitrite are still zero it is time to add some critters.

You may now begin the light phase. Begin by putting the blue lights on for about 4 hours per day and the white lights for about 2 hours. Timers are very useful and recommended. Each week add an hour to each light type until the blue lights are on a total of 8 - 10 hours and the whites are on a total of 7 - 9 hours.

FIRST LIVESTOCK We recommend that the first livestock to be added is hermit crabs, snails, serpent or brittle stars, and other janitorial type critters. If you really must add a fish we recommend clown fish or an equivalent hardy species.

GOING FORWARD We invite you to come see us at The Marine Scene and let our knowledgeable staff help you in choosing your fish, corals, invertebrates, and all your supplies and offer suggestions and advice on successfully maintaining your new aquarium.